Usually a cry of “man overboard” engenders panic and alarm, but on a white water rafting adventure on the Ottawa River, it is par for the course. For once the cliché “thrills and spills” is a precise description of what is in store for those who dare to tackle the boiling rapids. Surprisingly, this thrill is available not just to seasoned paddlers, but to anyone who weighs more than 41kg/90 pounds. From their bases on the banks of the river, within easy reach of Canada’s capital city, Ottawa, several outfitters offer a choice of guided packages, from high-octane rafting to gentle float trips. Adventures can be calibrated according to the wishes of the group and water levels. But a chance to follow in Grey Owl’s wake is open to everyone, to catch “a momentary glimpse through driven, blinding spume, into some seething turmoil.”For much of its length, the Ottawa River, once known as the Grand River of the Algonquins, defines the border between the provinces of Ontario and Quebec. The river runs calmly along most of its length. But a special 10km stretch near the Rocher Fendu Islands (meaning split rock) creates enough mountainous white water to make this the best and most popular boating destination in Eastern Canada. Twelve-person paddle rafts can flip end-over-end in huge white water; for proof, just do a Google search of “Ottawa River carnage”. Here you can find Dragon’s Tongue and other fearsomely named rapids such as Butcher’s Knife and (my favourite) Bus Eater.
Slamming into a wave like a skyscraper and being tossed out into the swirling, roaring water may sound terrifying; but be assured that you generally bob up beside the raft. There is almost no danger of being swept away or even of having to follow the guide’s instructions to “swim hard towards Quebec”. Some first-time thrill-seekers expect non-stop rapids, but of course they occur only at intervals, with short, fast rapids ending in stretches of flat water. Once you drop over a rapid, the guides will get you to paddle hard back into the maelstrom (called “surfing”) so that those sitting at the front get pounded by the water. It’s a tricky manoeuvre, but it’s great fun when it succeeds. The raft guides – as much entertainers as they are skilled river paddlers – add to the fun, especially while your boat is waiting its turn to run a rapid.
Rafting tour operators run two routes – the Main Channel and the more challenging Middle Channel, featuring the infamous Garvin's Chute, complete with a five-metre drop. The beginning of the season, from mid-May, sees the fastest water following the spring run-off of snow. Some of the operators include wetsuit hire in the price of rafting packages before mid-June. Over the summer, the scorching Ontario sun warms the water beautifully, so that on the quieter stretches of river, the temptation to slip into the water and be carried along by the current is overwhelming.
Three main rafting companies are located within a few kilometres of Foresters Falls, a 75-minute drive from Ottawa. RiverRun Rafting (riverrunrafting.com), Owl Rafting (owl-mkc.ca/owl) and Wilderness Rafting Tours (wildernesstours.com) each offer inclusive rafting packages on the Ontario side, including one-day river trips on a 12-person raft, with an optional second day in a more adventurous six- or eight-person craft, or even in a two-person inflatable Sportyak. Camping and cabin accommodation is available in a simple resort setting, with varying facilities that include volleyball courts, barbecues and evening entertainment. A one-day rafting trip with lunch costs from about C$120 (£60) whereas the popular two-day camping packages start at C$300 including meals and tax. Upgrading to a rustic cabin that sleeps up to six (bedding may be extra) will add C$60-$90. Prices are lower and availability easier on weekdays.
Travel Essentials
Air Canada (aircanada.com) operates four flights a day from London Heathrow to Toronto and Air Canada rouge connects Edinburgh, Glasgow, Manchester and Dublin with Toronto. Air Canada rouge will also operate summer flights from Gatwick to Toronto from May 19th, 2016.
Win an epic adventure in Ontario with RAY MEARS
Plus £300 of Mountain Warehouse gear and flight with Air Canada rouge.
Fly to Ontario with Air Canada rouge before embarking on the trip of a lifetime! Guided by Ray Mears, you'll journey deep into the spectacular backcountry of Northern Ontario, where you'll be immersed in Canada's canoe culture and the legend of Grey Owl. Paddle, camp, fish and learn bushcraft skills from the master himself. This is an adventure like no other.
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